#1. Do I need a rooster for my hen’s to lay eggs?
Answer: Okay, stop laughing! You didn’t always know the answer to this question. For those of you who admitted to yourselves that you didn’t know the answer, let me tell you that this is the most commonly asked question we get so don’t be embarrassed. The answer is no, unless you want baby chicks. If you’re just looking for eggs to eat and/or some nice yard pets, hens minus the rooster can provide you with plenty of farm fresh eggs without a single crow to wake you up in the morning.
#2. What age do hens start laying and how many eggs will they lay?
Answer: Typically hens will start to lay when they are around 5 to 6 months of age and will lay approximately 200 to 300 eggs annually based on the breed type. Breeds like Rhode Island Reds, Gold Sex Links, and White Leghorns are considered some of the most prolific egg layers. Peak production generally occurs at 2 years of age and slowly declines there after.
#3. How long do chickens live?
Answer: The life expectancy of most standard chicken breeds shielded from predators and deep fryers can range from 8 to 15 years. There are many reports of pet chickens living as long as 20 years! With the increasing popularity of raising chickens as pets, I imagine someone will develop a new line of chicken coops such as nursing coops or assisted living coops for the growing population of elderly chickens. All joking aside, chickens are very hardy animals that rarely need a trip to a veterinarian no matter how long they live.
#4. What do I need to care for baby chicks?
Answer: Boil some water and grab some clean towels! Isn’t this what we heard on television when the mother went into labor? However with newborn chickens, we only need to boil water if we plan on cooking them. What you do need is a way to keep your baby chicks warm without cooking them. Depending on the number of chicks and your budget there are several options. Most commonly used and most economical is a single lamp infrared brooder with a 250 watt red glass infrared bulb. Of course you will need a perimeter to contain the chicks inside the heated area and something as simple as an 18” high corrugated paper chick corral will get the job done. Place a small thermometer inside to ensure the correct temperature of 95 degrees is maintained, dropping 5 degrees each week thereafter. A proper chick feeder and waterer is also necessary and should provide ample space for the number of chicks inside. Pine shavings will work well as bedding and although there are many other options, you want to avoid using material such as newspaper that does not provide stable footing.
#5. How much feed do chickens eat?
Answer: The amount of feed a chicken will consume varies dramatically based on breed type, feed quality, climate, and other variables that make it difficult to provide one good answer. However a typical laying hen will consume around 4 to 6 ounces of feed each day with an increase during cold months and a decrease during warm months. Many types of feeders available today are designed to prevent feed from being scratched out which will help reduce the amount of wasted feed and help lower your overall feed bill. Depending on where you are located, your chickens can nearly survive strictly by foraging for their food on a good size piece of property. Foraging for food is really the chickens preferred method of eating because it makes life much more interesting for them as opposed to standing around an all you can eat food trough. Even during the leaner times you can promote natural foraging behavior by hanging a “Free Range” feeder in your yard which has a timer that can be set to release various amounts of peletized feed in a 6′ to 10′ diameter providing your chickens the sustenance they require while still allowing them the opportunity to act upon their natural instincts.
#6. How big does my chicken coop need to be?
Answer: Because chickens spend most of their active time outside of the chicken coop, generally 2 to 3 square feet per chicken is sufficient space. Remember you will need to provide space to roost at night and space for the nesting boxes to lay their eggs. If you plan on keeping them cooped up full time then 8 to 10 square feet per chicken would do counting the outside run but more in this case is always better. If you are planning on buying or building a mobile chicken coop, space requirement is minimized because it offers you the ability to frequently move the coop and chickens onto fresh ground.
#7. How many nest boxes will I need for my hens?
Answer: If you asked a slick nest box salesman, he would probably tell you the answer is 1 box for every hen and then tell you how much he likes you and how he is willing to give you a great deal if buy today. Fortunately I don’t think there are many “nest box salesmen” or slick ones for that matter. However there are plenty of poultry supply companies that sell nest boxes and the answer they should give you is approximately 5 to 6 hens per nest box. Now this can and does vary somewhat but the point is this, if you have 25 hens you don’t need to purchase 25 individual nest boxes. In fact, one 6 hole nest box would probably be sufficient for 25 laying hens or 6 extremely pampered laying hens.
#8. What is the best way to deal with internal and external parasites?
Answer: Because we are dealing with an animal that we may eat or eat the eggs from, I prefer to recommend the more natural alternatives for treatment opposed to chemical use. “Food grade” diatomaceous earth is the fossilized remains of microscopic shells created by one celled plants called diatoms and is the most popular natural product for controlling internal and external parasites. Chickens can be dusted with diatomaceous earth to treat lice and mites, and it can be mixed with their feed to control worms. Another alternative all natural product is called Poultry Protector which is used for the control of external parasites such as mites, lice, and fleas. Poultry Protector which uses natural enzymes to control parasites, can be sprayed in all areas of the chickens living quarters and safely on the chickens as well.
#9. What is the best way to protect my chickens from predators?
Answer: Obviously a well built chicken coop is your first and best defense to prevent predators from harming your flock. It should be designed to prevent predators from crawling through small openings or from tunneling under. Most troublesome predators come at night so it may be a good idea to place a few Nite Guards around your coop which should cut down on most predators from even approaching your coop. Nit eGuard Solar emits a flashing red light at night which makes predators think their being watched by something more terrifying than they are, forcing them to leave the area.
#10. How do I get my chickens to go in the coop at night?
Answer: Chickens instinctively move into their coop when the sun goes down. It may take a little coaxing for grown chickens to move into a newly built coop but once they realize its home they generally go right in at night. Your job will be to close the door behind them once they enter to prevent predators from entering and then to open it back up in the morning. If this sounds like something you don’t have time for or if you don’t have someone to do it for you while away on vacation, you can always buy an automatic chicken coop door, there are many new ones popping up and that appear to be very promising.